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Brinkmann 810-4345-0
I purchased this Brinkman from an individual for $200 in 2006. Although it had only been used a few times one of the casters was broken, one valve would not shut off, and the regulator would not allow gas through to the burners.
When taking this grill apart you may want to put a plastic sheet under it to catch loose nuts, bolts, screws, etc... The burners, flame tamers, and main grids can be purchased at www.clagrills.com/allgrillparts/brinkmann/brinkmann-model-pro_series_810-4345-0.htm.
1) First, I unhooked the tank from the regulator and removed the warming rack, cooking grids, flame tamers, burners, and grease tray. The burners are held in place by a cotter pin, which you cannot see under the burner bracket on the back of the grill.
The pin may be rusted through, in which case the back of the burner should lift up and then be pulled toward the back of the grill. If the pin is not rusted though, you'll have to remove it which I did using needle nose pliers.
2) With the burners and other parts out the grill is lighter and I was able to turn the grill on its side with the wheels so I could easily get to the broken castor. The castor was screwed into a bent flange, which was spot welded into the square side post.
2) With the burners and other parts out the grill is lighter and I was able to turn the grill on its side with the wheels so I could easily get to the broken castor. The castor was screwed into a bent flange, which was spot welded into the square side post.
I was able to drive the flange back into the post with a big screwdriver and a hammer. The flange may be too loose to fit tightly into the post. If that's the case, there are several other options. You may purchase a replacement post with the threaded flange from the factory. It may also be possible to secure the loose flange by driving sheet metal screws into the post just above the edge between the flange and the castor. Or you could simply do away with the castor and use light weight corner braces from the hardware store screwed into the side of the post to level the grill.
3) I could then place the grill back on its wheels and castors, clean & reinstall the burners, hook up the tank and then see how the grill lights up. Before doing so, it is important to make sure the burners are reinstalled correctly.
My second problem came at this point discovering that no gas came on with the tank open and the grill valves on high. T
he grill's burners would not light. I unhooked one of the hose connections to the grill with the tank closed and holding a finger over the end opened the tank's valve.
Danger! Any time you remove and reconnect gas fittings you must check for leaks. It is important to keep any flame away from the area while you do this.
If you are still uncertain, please call a technician!
The Brinkmann has a side burner and requires a double hose, which can also be found on www.clagrills.com/allgrillparts/all-repairparts.htm, part # 80034- regulator with two hoses.
Danger! Any time you remove and reconnect gas fittings you must check for leaks. It is important to keep any flame away from the area while you do this.
If you are still uncertain, please call a technician!
The Brinkmann has a side burner and requires a double hose, which can also be found on www.clagrills.com/allgrillparts/all-repairparts.htm, part # 80034- regulator with two hoses.
After removing the old hose connections I installed the new hose (CLA part #80034) and checked for leaks with the tank valve on and the grill valves off using soapy water.
DANGER! Be certain to check for leaks! At this point I was ready to light the grill without the flame tamers and grids in so I can see the falme and check the flame relative to the grill valve positions.
I noticed for my grill that all the burners worked well except the one on the right which could not be turned off with the valve in the off position.
This would indicate that my knob wasn't mounted correctly on the valve stem or the valve was faulty. That could happen at the factory but would be rare.
This would indicate that my knob wasn't mounted correctly on the valve stem or the valve was faulty. That could happen at the factory but would be rare.
If someone else had tried to correct a problem they thought was occuring in the valve, they might have taken the valve apart and incorrectly put it back together. To correct this I had to remove the valve cover with the manifold from the grill and the manifold with the valves from the valve cover.
There are two screws holding each valve to the valve cover and two nuts with bolts on each side of the valve cover holding it to the grill. I was able to take the valve apart and put it back together correctly. I can't easily show this process with pictures and don't recommend trying it as the valve can go back together in several ways only one of which will work properly.
It is also possible to score the inside of the brass chamber and cause a permant gas leak.It is more likely that the previous owner had opened the valve trying to correct the lack of gas to the burners from the faulty regulator.
3) Even though the ignitor-electrod was working with a new battery I did find that the CLA part # 02623 (www.clagrills.com/allgrillparts/all-repairparts.htm) would replace the factory electrod.
I inserted the replacement electrod all the way in and rolled the open face of the box with the top down to the burner. I noticed that there was a lighting hole on the left side that would allow you to use a long stemed lighter in case the ignitor doesn't work.
4) Conversion of this grill to natural gas would require replacing the orifices or drilling them out. The main burner valves are located in the assembly under the front panel. Part 3) of this section and the LP-Natural Gas conversion section of this site contains instructions on how to access these valves.
The main valves for this grill require a #51 drill bit which can be found sometimes in local hardware stores and on-line by searching for "numbered drill bits". The orifice opening must be enlarged to this size(#51)
Accessing the side burner valve will require removing the burner and drilling the orifice in that valve out to a #53 drill bit. These are not standard or metric drill bits but the type used by machinist and are not usually found in most hardware stores.
REMEMBER! Failure to check ALL connections for leaks after reconnecting will result in fire and possible injury. (
Drilling out the orifices is most easily done with a hand held drill bit holder shown in img0070. Using an electric drill could break the small drill bit. The orifices are brass and soft to drill. Be sure to remove the old LP-hose-regulator and use a locally approved gas connector. CLA part# 80144 found at www.clagrills.com/allgrillparts/all-repairparts.htm. Local hardware stores may also have them.Be certain to check your burners for a nice blue flame. The burners on the 4345 I have has small air shutter openings and might have to be enlarged slightly to give a nice blue flame for natural gas. These burners are not adjustable but would have to be enlarged with a file or electric drill.I checked the burners with the flame tamers and grids off to insure that the flame is blue. A yellow flame won't heat as well and could soot your food.
This Brinkmann grill wasn't expensive new but is flimsy in places but can be repaired as items give out. If you buy one new be sure to keep the manual and receipt so you can hold them to their warrenty. This usually requires phone time but can save some money.